A change of heart in the Galapagos

For years I have been chastised for having the dolphin as my favourite animal. People have shunned me at parties, I have stood in the corner, drink in hand, the cool liquid my only friend. The high-pitched tones of the dolphin have played in my ears as my friends have turned their backs and talked of tigers and elephants, sharks and snakes. Greater animals, tougher, faster and more dangerous.

Dolphin love is 80s they said, Flipper is childhood thing, the dolphin heyday has passed and will never to reach the heights of the 50s when Opo the friendly dolphin graced New Zealand's shores and played with the wee ones. Why not choose any one of the gigantic beasts from the great plains or a magnificent bird? Why not go left field and choose the Siberian Snow Leopard?

For a time I stood fast, resolute in my love for the friendly sea creature, but not fast enough. For it was in the early 2000s, when my acceptance into a new and exciting University peer group teetered on the brink, that I dropped the Dolphin and slumped for the Bengal Tiger. It was a strong choice and it played well with my friends, you cannot quibble with the orange and black beauty from the sub-continent, but oh how my heart ached.

Concerning guns

It's not the safest border crossing but we'd done our research. Every thing's pointing to one bus company as the best means with which to cross and yet...

3.30am in the morning, immigration control, no man's land. Bleary eyed, it's pelting with rain, mud oozes through my shoes and I'm wet through. Trudging unthinking towards the lights and suddenly a scream. I turn, a struggle, a 6ft giant pressed against my wife and before I can think a gun is at her head - a moment frozen in time.

Screaming ´gun´and lunging forward, all sense of self-preservation is gone. Rugby tackling Kate back into the bus, through the door, legs everywhere and mud all over us, through the next door and slammed shut. Eyes wide and shoulder against the perspex, can plastic stop a bullet? Our eyes meet in terror, the unknown. We're safe? A beat... we're safe. To look at your loved-one's face in this state breaks every fibre of your soul.

On the trail to Machu Picchu

The dot matrix tune of the Hummingbirds filters through dense jungle, their small frames dart between flowers, feeding and hovering, never staying still for long. They're good luck reputedly, seeing five as they feast bodes well for the next four days.


Jungle surrounds us on this the first day of the Inca Trail. The trail is hot and dry, the Vilconta River swollen and nasty. All around us are the sounds of birds and insects, amplified by the heat from the earth, calling out for moisture - a prayer answered most days, this being the wet season.

To the navel of the Inca

A city masquerading as a friendly village. Cobbled streets, Inca walls, Spanish cathedrals, adobe walls, rugs, jerseys and hats in all the colours of the rainbow.

Five days here, perfect. Food from every corners of the Earth, three course meals for $US6 and hostals kitted-up solid to cater for the gringo onslaught.

travel bites: Lima

Stay

Pariwana Hostel. Secure hostel, laid back vibe, great roof terrace, (mostly) friendly staff in the chilled out area of Miraflores. 

See 

Wander rounds Miraflores, walk along the coast to bohemian neighbourhood Barranco. Make sure you wear sunscreen, the sun's mighty hot.

Eat

Panchita Casual cool dining around the corner from Miraflores. Try the swordfish skewers, baby goat, steak on the grill...and much much more. I know some people who went back three times...Mouthwatering food, fantastic service. 

Cebiche / ceviche. Try it at La Canta Rana in the Barranco district. Italian owned, football paraphenalia-covered walls. Laid back family vibe and superb service. We sat next to a Limeno who owned a ceviche restaurant in Miami, and he said the restaurant was so creative he had never seen some of the dishes they came up with. One of my top 5 meals.

Choclo (corn). Served with everything. Apparently the giant kinds are only grown in teh Sacred Valley. 

Camote (sweet potato). Pretty similar to kumara.

Chicha morada A super sweet, non alcoholic, purple drink which locals down by the bucketload. Made from corn, pineapple, cinammon, cloves, lime and sugar. Invented by the Incas.